One of my favorite things about living in Southern California is the amazing produce we get year round, and the staggering variety available.  Every Sunday, I buy most (if not all) of my produce for the week at the Hollywood Farmers’ Market.

Shopping at farmers’ markets has made me realize the diversity of the produce I buy; while a few heirloom veggies are currently enjoying a vogue, it’s not often that varieties are labeled at the supermarket.  I love knowing that I prefer fuerte avocados to bacons, for example, or being able to buy several kinds of mint on any given market day.  But one of the most interesting things is running across produce that, as a New England transplant, I’ve never seen or tried before. 

One fall morning a few years ago, I saw a vendor selling fresh olives.  I knew that olives had to be cured to be eaten, and though I had seen fresh olives growing on trees, it had never occurred to me that I could cure my own olives.  I knew I had to try it. 

As soon as I got home from the market, I called my dad.  “Have you ever cured olives?” I asked “Of course!” he laughed.  I didn’t consider how commonplace an activity it must have been for him growing up in Greece.  He recited from memory some beautifully simple instructions, so rustic compared to the published recipes I typically cook from.  I doubt any family member has ever written down this method; rather, it’s the kind of technique one learns from a mother or grandmother whose movements and measurements are sure and automatic.  I’m happy to be recording and sharing my dad’s “recipe,” and as I continue to refine my technique each time I make them, I love remembering how plainly he passed the knowledge on to me.

Brine-cured olives

- Part 1 -
5 or more lbs fresh olives (I’ve used both Mission and Manzanilla olives)
box of kosher salt
bottled water (at least one gallon to start)
extra virgin olive oil
large jar or jars for curing

- Part 2 -
extra virgin olive oil
rosemary
lemons (Meyers can be used, but are not necessary)
small jars for “canning”

Wash olives well, then drain in a colander. 

Working in batches, place a few olives at a time on a cutting board.  (I like to put a dish towel around it to prevent them from rolling.)

With the flat side of a meat tenderizer give each a good whack until it splits open. 

My dad says he put the olives on a rock and smashed them with another, smaller rock; that’s an option as well.  Alternately, slice each one lengthwise with a paring knife. 

Transfer sliced or split olives to a large jar or jars.

Dissolve one cup (“two fistfuls” per my dad’s instructions) of kosher salt in water, mixing until as much salt is dissolved as possible. 

Pour off the salt water into the olive jar, leaving undissolved salt behind.  Keep adding water and stirring, then pouring water into the olive jar until all the salt has been dissolved and added to the olives.  Top up jar with enough fresh water to cover olives and give it a shake or stir.

Add a thin layer of oil to the surface of the water and olives, and seal the jar.

Leave the jar out at cool room temperature, and wait a week.

After week one, drain and rinse olives.  Some sludge may accumulate on the surface— this is not a problem, just rinse the olives well.  Wash the jar, then return the olives to it.  Again dissolve the salt water as above, this time using only half as much salt (1/2 c).  Add oil, and seal the jar for another week.

Repeat this procedure for four weeks.  At the end of the four weeks, taste the olives.  If they are still bitter, use half as much salt as the previous week and let them sit another week.  If they are salty, let them sit a week in water only.  If they taste great, move on!  The olives can take anywhere from four to eight weeks, so be patient.

When the olives taste good (not too bitter, not too salty), drain and rinse them a final time. 

Slice one or two lemons crosswise into thin slices, and line each of the small jars with a few. 

Cut rosemary sprigs to the height of each jar.  Add olives to the jars a few at a time, snuggling a few sprigs of rosemary in-between. 

Press gently on the olives, packing them in tightly, then pour olive oil slowly over olives and seal jars.  Let olives rest in the refrigerator at least one week. 

Olives should be stored in the refrigerator (where they will keep at least one year), but the oil will solidify, so bring them to room temperature before enjoying them.